What were you doing in 2015 on the first Thursday in December? In an age of isolation, can we even recall times when we enjoyed whisky in joyous company?
Years ago, that frosty night forever etched itself in my mind.
The site: New York’s Brandy Library, where owner Flavien Desoblin provided the fun then as he hopes to do in 2021. Spirits lovers know these events portend great learning that goes beyond a simple “good time”. For me, a Scotch surprise emerged as brand ambassador Gemma Patterson held court with samplings of Balvenie’s products.
Up to that point, while having tasted many single malts and blended whiskies, my reviewing career was only dawning. I wanted to create something more than letter grades or number ranks. As I tried each of the labels, I heard Gemma’s voice repeating a word in a constant stream: “Balanced”.
The light bulb went on. If these whiskies appeal to folk who prefer flavors in symmetry, other brands might diverge; and that could be a helpful thing. This grew into the basis for my rating scale.
Fast forward to a recent winter COVID-19 on-line tasting hosted by her heir, Naomi Leslie. No less an expert, she faced forty eager Zoomies who always demand a high level of skill and knowledge from such reps.
For me, I had an epiphany redux. For others, the magic revealed itself in layers of malt, lasting aromatic smoke and Naomi’s deft descriptions of Balvenie 12-, 14-, 21- and the 14-year Peat Week. She shared more than mere profiles, but spoke to the history and culture of her firm; traits that serve as the label’s bedrock.
Throughout her session, she used the term “Balance” often. Plus ça change…
Checkout the reviews for:
Balvenie Doublewood 12 Year Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year Balvenie Portwood 21 Year Balvenie The Week of Peat 14 Year
Wow! Did whisky aromas ever jump out at you straight from the glass as you wait the customary twenty pre-nosing seconds?
Well, this one did in a contest for dominance between honey, malt, alcohol, cream and dirt. Yes, those scents attacked from a Glencairn with no need to extend my nostrils into the receptacle.
But, after a long period of continuous inhales, I tempted the fates of taste.
The palate’s initial sweet sensation gave way to bitterness reminiscent of the Craigellachie 13. But it was short-lived as burnt almonds and vanilla rose to the fore only then replaced by a stronger level of hot spice. Adding water diminished the sweetness resulting in rising pepper.
The smooth yet brief finish left a nice acrid afterburn as I reminisced the power of warring flavors.
Not for the faint of heart, the Adventurer tries this, by itself, before or with a meal of similar tones. Try an arugula salad with balsamic vinaigrette followed by mustard paprika crusted lamb or pork chops. You’ll enjoy everything to the fullest.
It’s also another match for a strong cigar. No weak-ass smokes allowed!
Michael Bendavid’s review below captures the essence of this spirit in greater detail. Nicely done.
Mark Garbin’s Evaluation:
Aromas & Flavor Appeals to:
Optimal Client Type
Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado
Apprentice
Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer
Enthusiast
Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee
Adventurer
With Food
Uni-Directional Fan
Mountain Climber
Dessert or Afterwards
Chameleon Lover
Hedonist
With a Cigar
Distiller.com rating: Flavors open up quicker than a kid ripping open presents at Christmas. Marzipan almonds on the nose with a Rock ‘em Sock ‘em sour maltiness delicately spiced, sweetened and seasoned. Baskets of fruit and nuts are balanced with just the right amount of oak and meatiness. A thick Greek yogurt tang bursts with lemon in the finish before the malts return to kiss you goodnight. This is all four food groups in a glass. –Blair Phillips
Malt and Oak(edited): While the 13 was vegetal and somewhat sulfury (see the review here), I found the 17 to be delightful. If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you already know that I have a proclivity for bitter flavors and the 17 replaces the sour (less up my alley) with bitter which works quite well. Palate: Relatively bitter and far less sour than the 13, with spice – chili pepper, cinnamon and cardamom – with a light sweetness. For a fleeting moment the taste of IPA beer crosses the tongue. Linger: Bitter citrus in the mouth, tangy on the sides of tongue and spicy down the gullet. This finish is close to perfection!! I think this is the real gem in the range. It’s past the “danger zone” of onion still character that dominates the younger expressions of the meaty distilleries (Craigellachie, Mortlach and the like) and works really well. – Michael Bendavid
Mark Garbin’s Review: They call Craigellachie 13 the “bad boy” of single malts; a moniker well deserved. Its old-fashioned distillation method requires cooling in copper coils called a worm tub (Click here).
The result highlights every flavor and appeals to the Adventurer. Sweet honey malt starts the party but suddenly spice, smoke, salt and a curious minerality hits the mouth with a soft bitter herb essence. These attributes persist until you swallow with the hot spicy taste remaining through the quick finish. Adding water eliminates the residual acerbic trait and creates a firmness that lasts on the tongue finishing with a light smolder and heather nectar with medium length.
Caution: each of the whisky’s qualities rises to the fore with muscle and competes for your attention. Surrender to the inevitable. Either ally yourself to focus on one of the warring tastes or decide what food is the ideal accompaniment to this spirit.
I thought of lamb chops or venison. There are few single malts that can stand up to such powerful meals. You’ll find the tang of strong-flavored meat a wonderful juxtaposition to the strength of this drink.
Alternatively, try a strong cigar but beware: The stogie needs a backbone to withstand the onslaught.
Otherwise, be prepared to storm the castle of your senses with Craigellachie 13 as your trusted companion.
Mark Garbin’s Evaluation:
Aromas & Flavor Appeals to:
Optimal Client Type
Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado
Apprentice
Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer
Enthusiast
Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee
Adventurer
With Food
Uni-Directional Fan
Mountain Climber
Dessert or Afterwards
Chameleon Lover
Hedonist
With a Cigar
Distiller.com rating: Taking a whiff of this whisky instantly takes you to Scotland. Rich malt, apples dipped in honey, hay, and gentle wood spices fill your head as you inhale. The whisky is moderately full on your palate and continues with the orchard fruits but adds some lemon and a touch of mint. Having been bottled at 92 proof, the spiced notes are heightened and finishes on the dry side, but there’s still a little sweetness left to soften the blow. –Stephanie Moreno
Malted Blog: Nose – Oh bags of fruits: apples, pears, passion fruits. The fruit is fizzy & slightly fermented so think like boiled sweets and apple cider. A touch of caramel & honey too. Palate – The texture is big thick and luxurious. There is sulphur and esters for sure here as well. More caramel and some crack of pepper. Finish – The finish isn’t massively long but it is very bitter and astringent. Sour tang of wood sap. Quite the roller coaster of a dram.
Forget any past tasting you had of Royal Brackla 12 and 16.
Change your mind about Aberfeldy 12, 16 and 21.
It’s all about context!
Here stands two magical cigars. But the mix of smoke and whisky creates diverse palate effects. So, be prepared for SURPRISE!!
Let’s cut to the chase. With the Aging Room Quattro Nicaragua Maestro, the Royal Brackla 12 brings out the best in both dram and stick in great harmony. Aberfeldy 16 comes close to the same rapport, but with more nuance.
When smoking the Romeo y Julieta Reserva Real Nicaragua, these two also rise to the top. My view, in this case, gives a slight nod to the Aberfeldy 16 because of the second cigar’s spice.
Here’s a preview of a night you’ll recall. This standard of excellence is what we all assume from finetobacconyc.com. I hope your flavor trip will be as rewarding as mine.
Cigar: Aging Room Quattro Nicaragua Maestro – The cold draw has nice espresso flavors, almost toasted! A smooth wrapper and soft blend make it sensual. You don’t even have to smoke to enjoy it.
Note: All bottles are 40% ABV
Royal Brackla 12 – When we light up the Cigar of the Year, we expect our whisky pairs to transport us to a new level, and it does! Wow! What a surprise! The RB 12 is that outcome and more! Past samplings of this spirit showed that it was largely a good malt. It had a dusty, rocky dryness that was short lived followed by fleeting Kraft Caramel. Then it finished with a light black pepper. My first thought: Best drink this neat before dinner. Well… so much for the past. Tonight, there’s a balance between cigar and scotch; rare for such a low ABV. The RB’s hint of back palate smoke equaled the gentle spice of the AR. The stony grist of the whisky dissolved into the sweet earth of the stick. Lost in thought, I turned my head and found I emptied the glass! Lucky for me, I had more in reserve!
Royal Brackla 16 – The AR’s smooth complexity tried hard to change the powerhouse, uni-directional RB16. It was almost the classic Bugs Bunny / Daffy Duck skit: “Duck Season!” “No! Rabbit Season!” After a strained effort, the whisky’s light fade gave way to the elegance of the smoke. The result was best for those who love distinct tastes and exult in a mouth battle.
Aberfeldy 12 – As the AR approached the end of its first third, some nuttiness emerged. I hoped the AF 12 would combine its normal honeycomb taste with the cigar. Nope. These two decided that peaceful co-existence was the way to go. You’ll find a gateway malt here. If blended scotch is your basic tipple, the AF12 is a new road for you. Why not pair it with a good smoke? Just don’t expect either to change.
Aberfeldy 16 – The red-headed step-child of the product line, the 16-year has real elan. There’s a bunch of flavors that come through without the pure honey tone of the 12-year. With so much going on with the whisky, you might think you could overlook the smoke. Not a chance! Surprise again! Here’s a case where all the grace of the cigar and the whisky’s kaleidoscope of tastes combine for a rare experience. Sit back and enjoy the ride. Revel in all your senses and trust them to impress. Now THAT’s what I’m talking about!
Aberfeldy 21 – A more erudite version of the AF12, the same honeyed nature emerges with less power and more finesse. Yet, like the twelve-year, the cigar is a separate journey. But why fight the flavors? Just enjoy each of them apart. Any notion of a fight dissolves into the knowledge that you’ve got two fine samples in your hands.
Mark’s Preference: #1 Aberfeldy 16, #2 Royal Brackla 12, #3 Royal Brackla 16, #4 Aberfeldy 21, #5 Aberfeldy 12.
Cigar: Romeo y Juilieta Reserva Real Nicaragua – The cold draw has a lot of pepper and spice with some nutmeg, maybe even some cardamom. Here’s another beauty of the highest quality. But prepare yourself for a smoke of strength.
Royal Brackla 12 – Given my first experience with the AR, I had no preconceived notions with a cigar of such different character! Again, SURPRISE! The initial sweet flavor then the spicy trace of the RB 12’s finish were perfect counterpoints to the pepper of the RJ, each tempered in their ardor. One plus one now equals three. This is a big winner!
Royal Brackla 16 – The RB 16 is a sipping whisky that stands on its own. But when it meets the strength of this stogie, it’s a battle for dominance with each vying for control of your senses. If you crave a battle royale in your mouth, here’s your UFC cage match!
Aberfeldy 12 – By now the RJ, in the second third, is mellowing out. Yet the honeyed one-dimensional AF 12 overpowered the cigar! Weird! I expected the RJ to put up a fight. Yet it surrendered to the dram! All that remained was the slight tinge of pepper that showed you what lurked in the end. Interesting: the milder AR produced a more cohesive result.
Aberfeldy 16 – Ok, I didn’t know what to expect from my favorite in the AR sequence. The same complex nose of the glass jolted me and brought out hidden smooth and warm traits of the RJ. Not outdone, the cigar countered by tempering the chameleon flavors of the AF 16. What a delight! Enjoy this classic sensation where each aspect inspires the other.
Aberfeldy 21 – I wasn’t expecting much here. The AF21 is too smooth, too aged. It’s a great dessert whisky, but it’s gonna get clobbered, right? WRONG! Like the AF12, the reverse happened. The spirit overwhelmed the cigar. The honeyed sensation beat down the pepper, but the 21-year, unlike its younger sibling, let the stick’s heat return at the finish.
Mark’s Preference: #1 Royal Brackla 12, #2 Aberfeldy 16, #3 Aberfeldy 21, #4 Aberfeldy 12, #5 Royal Brackla 16.
Summary: I enjoyed an evening of surprises. I didn’t expect the Royal Brackla 12 to impress as much as it did (in both cases!) despite major differences in the cigars. That a whisky can overpower a strong smolder is also new to me. I expect the inverse. The ending surprise was how good the Aberfeldy 16 was with different smokes. Perhaps what makes it such a flavor changeling creates a true savored adventure.
There are some wonderful take-aways here: You could like a whisky and a cigar by themselves, but, perhaps, not together. On the other hand, you could discover that a fine smoke might not pair well with your preferred drink! Last, the age of a spirit does not translate to a superb smoking experience. Remember the setting. First choose the cigar flavor profile you want. Then lay out some samples from your own bar and dive in! Don’t limit yourself to Scotch! You’re bound to find true love, as finetobacconyc.com’s own Kelvin Batista learned with Rum.
What’s your view? Leave a comment and tell us! – Mark
Subtle Single Malt Neat Before Dinner or with Light Food
Photo Credit: Diageo
Whisky Reviewed: Oban Little Bay Distiller: Oban (Diageo) Region: West Highlands Suggested Retail Price: $60 ABV: 43% USC Rating: 94 Distiller Rating: 91
Mark’s Review
The love and care Oban puts into this product is at once obvious. Start with a sweet dried fruit sensation and savor the golden liquid as it evolves into complex oak and spice notes. Its mid palate grace lingers until a modest smoke finish arises, only to vanish like the scent of a flower on a warm spring breeze.
Oban Little Bay has such a tender balance. Try not to drown it in a cocktail. All those wonderful touches might dissolve. Neat or mixed with a few drops of water and your mouth can relish every moment.
But a word of caution if you drink this with a meal. A steak or other heavy dinner could overcome the whisky’s flavors.
Here’s a great idea: Pair this beauty with a first course. My wood grilled artichoke with champagne dipping sauce evoked nirvana.
One hint: please cook (or order) your food making sure it’s crafted in the same subtle manner. If you follow this advice, your taste buds will reach a spiritual plane (pun intended!)
Mark Garbin’s Evaluation
Aromas & Flavor Appeals to:
Optimal Client Type
Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado
Apprentice
Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer
Enthusiast
Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee
Adventurer
With Food(Light Touch)
Uni-Directional Fan
Mountain Climber
Dessert or Afterwards
Chameleon Lover
Hedonist
With a Cigar
USC rating: Savory and earthy aromas dominate the nose, which is slightly smoky as well. Fresh grains and lightly toasted wheat crackers are subtle flavors in the mouth. The texture is suede like, with dusty notes, adding layers of depth to each sip.
Distiller.com rating: A complex nose with dried plums and apricots, confectioners’ sugar, malt syrup, oak, and honeyed fig. The palate is as equally tempting, opening with nice malt tones, Granny Smith apple, citrus peel, sea spray and milk chocolate notes. Gentle oak and spice notes begin to emerge, with cardamom, ginger, and clove coming to the forefront before leaving. The finish is relatively quick and lively with orange marmalade covered scones and black tea to finish. –Distiller Staff
