Great Whisky Review

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Compass Box – This is Not a Luxury Whisky

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For Adventurous Chameleon Flavor Lovers Neat Before and After Dinner

photo courtesy Compass Box Whisky Company

Whisky Reviewed: This is Not a Luxury Whisky
Distiller: Compass Box
Region: Mixed Islay & Highland Malts, Glasgow & Lowland Grain Whiskies
ABV: 53.1%
Suggested Retail Price: $250+
Distiller Rating: 92
The Whisky Shelf Rating: Top Shelf

Mark’s Review

I get it. Ok? Rene Magritte and Surrealism; a play on words from an L.A. County Museum painting. So many metaphors of this Compass Box edition exist. Yeah, they’re interesting but it tells you nothing of what’s in the bottle.

So after work one bright Friday eve, I ambled over to Tommy Tardie’s Fine & Rare, sat down, and ordered a pour. Whatever my notions of master distiller John Glaser’s art, I didn’t expect what soared from the crystal. The malt whisky mix of sherried 19-year-old Glen Ord and earthy 30-year-old Caol Ila freed themselves and rose in an instant. Floral and sweet with a gentle smoke, I savored their presence. Then all of a sudden, 40-year-old Strathclyde and Girvan grain spirits swirled into my senses with deep, rich scents of butter, vanilla and coconut.

I wanted my nose to stay in the glass for hours but my taste buds screamed out. As I sipped this gem, each of these striking aromas emerged as flavors. Of course, you’d predict the Ila peat to roar. I’m happy to say there’s no let down in that regard. But in the twinkling of an eye, a maze of complexity dashed in to surround me in a swirl of glory. The finish only continued those unreal tastes and went on forever.

I had to catch my breath.

Sure, it was the end of the week and I hoped for a few surprises, but this surpassed all. I stepped off my bar stool and walked around the place to clear my head. When I returned, a repeat of the process unleashed more endless splendor. Adding a drop or two of water (only) put a further fine point on the event.

The Adventurer will find in this dram a perfect foil for an idyllic sensual journey. Please don’t ruin this trance like beauty in a cocktail and no single meal can match the neural wealth.

Joy awaits you in this bottled Magritte after supper. But if your partner is a romantic soul, share a neat sample before a delicate dinner. Then linger, gaze and talk in hushed tones. That’s called dining NOT eating. It unites the realms of dreams and reality. Our friend Rene would be proud. Isn’t that what makes life worth living?

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation

Aromas & Flavor Appeals to: Optimal Client Type Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado Apprentice Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee Adventurer With Food
Chameleon Lover Hedonist Dessert or Afterwards

 

Distller.com review: The idea of luxury is about wealth, which also means richness, of which this whisky shows off like a socialite on a Beverly Hills shopping spree. A lush, extra creamy balance of vanilla, coconut, spice and a puff of sweet smoke play on the palate. All of this takes a break to stop for a cheeky hit of nutty sherry before returning to the mix, which ends in a long, distinguished wave.

The Whisky Shelf review: Compass Box’s “This is Not a Luxury Whisky” is a wonderfully delicious Scotch. It’s not nearly as loud and intense as other “Top Shelf” rated cask strength sherry-influenced Scotches such as Craigellachie 21 or Ben Nevis 21 Old Malt Cask, but it’s still great in its own way. It’s a more mature, calm, and composed Scotch that gently bathes you in dense and deep fruit, peat, wood, spice, and just a little smoke instead of trying to overwhelm you all at once, likely heavily influenced by so much of the blend being at least 30 years old, and 17% being 40 years old whiskey.

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Johnnie Walker Blue Label

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A Subtle Balanced Chameleon for Apprentices and Enthusiasts Neat Before and After Dinner

photo courtesy Diageo

Whisky Reviewed: Johnnie Walker Blue Label
Distiller: Diageo
Region: Primarily Speyside
ABV: 40%
Suggested Retail Price: $150-$250 (Watch Out!!)
USC Rating: 97
Distiller Rating: 90
Whiskey Wash Rating: 92

Mark’s Review

OMG, the aroma is incredible, maybe life changing! If you wanted one whisky to create the standard of velvety, sweet smoke, this is it. I could smell JW Blue all day and smile each time. Vanilla, caramel and apple bouquets rotated through every sense; yet with a feel of permanent coexistence. Normally in spirits, each of those potent smells vies for domination. Here they’re vibrant, rich partners.

How can a single spirit be such a delicate changeling? I even postponed the tasting because of the astounding aromatics. When I succumbed to the temptation to drink, my world got confused. When flavors don’t align with scents, disorientation often occurs. Fighting such confusion, I forced myself to ask:

What happened? I had to stop and think. I figured out that my subtle chameleon morphed into a soulful soft, mouth coating balanced whisky with a long finish. You’ll pause and do the same.

I then pondered: To whom would this appeal? That’s an easier question to answer. The Adventurer has no mountain to climb here and the Hedonist’s lurid desires are unfulfilled.

Johnnie Blue is, however, a rare mix of subtlety, balance and shifting tastes. It will tempt the Apprentice eager to learn and the Enthusiast embraces each aspect while admiring the harmony.

Enjoy a dram before a meal or as a reward after dinner, but forget about a cigar. It’ll blow away the gentility.

Use in a cocktail? To quote Jeff Dunham’s Achmed, the Dead Terrorist, I kill you! 

In the end, rest assured that the more you sample, the more you’ll want until, Voila! The glass is empty! Hurry and refill!

A note on price: This is not cheap stuff in any dimension. Shop with caution. I’ve seen bottles for less than $150 and over $250. Try this at a bar first to see if it’s for you and do the research on shops to know if you’re getting value or ripped off.

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation

Aromas & Flavor Appeals to: Optimal Client Type Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado Apprentice Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee Adventurer With Food
Chameleon Lover Hedonist Dessert or Afterwards

 

USC rating:  Distinguished nose of pipe tobacco, saddle leather, crushed pistachio, brown butter, and chocolate covered strawberries. Elegant and mellow mouthfeel with soft chewy caramel and milk chocolate bolstered by bright fruit and honeyed nuts. Luxurious and persistent.

Distiller.com rating: Where Johnnie Walker Black is more like Daniel Craig as James Bond, Blue Label is more Pierce Brosnan; less brute force with a touch more elegance. Take a sip and find dates and floral notes with a touch of spice. But make no mistake, the smoldering peat does eventually sneak up on you…perhaps like an MI6 agent might. – Stephanie Moreno

WhiskeyWash.com review: I know for myself, the question is not whether or not I would like to leave a store with a fresh bottle of Blue Label under my arm, but rather when I will feel the time is right to do so. After all, there is always a bottle sitting behind the register. The challenge becomes one of identifying an appropriate circumstance under which to finally make the investment. Once made, it is an easy one to live with. – Joshua St. John

 

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Cragganmore 12

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Subtlety Reigns Supreme for Apprentices and Enthusiasts Neat Before Dinner or with a Light Meal

photo courtesy of Diageo

Whisky Reviewed: Cragganmore 12
Distiller: Diageo
Region: Speyside
ABV:40%
Suggested Retail Price: $60+
Wine Enthusiast Rating: 90-95
USC Rating: 94
Distiller Rating: 86

Mark’s Review

Saturday night at a local restaurant and there it was, the core of Johnnie Walker’s product line, Cragganmore 12 year. No big deal. Right? Wrong!

The first aromas were, yeah, yeah, been there, done that, JW Black. But after two minutes of air, I lost my cynicism.

Refined scents rose from my Glencairn compelling me to pay full attention to a curious and varied sweetness. Caramel, almonds, wild honey and toffee together with floral chestnut vapors floated on gentle clouds. When I freed my nose, from the glass and tempted the fates of taste, the same pleasant subtle qualities ensued but with extra bonuses. A keen maltiness and creamy pound cake spread through my mouth and continued in the back palate without let up ending in a wisp of smoke. My continuous wide smiles were both unforeseen and unrestrained. They seemed to go on forever like the Energizer Bunny. When I added water I expected a typical 40% ABV flavor and finish dilution. Not here. A few drops subdued the main sugar factor, but emphasized the char.

Jason Debly’s comment is perfect: “This is gorgeous… an impressive tapestry of flavors to consider”.

This tender spirit is not for power or peat lovers and don’t think of using Cragganmore in a mixed drink. But the Apprentice learning about Speyside will find education in a bottle and the Enthusiast discovers a long-term addition to their collection.

Enjoy this neat before a meal; with a lobster dinner or any light food.

What I don’t get is Distiller’s write-up below. How can you give a 86 rating to a “hidden gem”? Take the number with a grain of salt. I leave you with a quote from Ari, the whisky guy, (a great 60 second video review): “This goes on my top shelf.”

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation

Aromas & Flavor Appeals to: Optimal Client Type Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado Apprentice Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee Adventurer With Food (Light)
Chameleon Lover Hedonist Dessert or Afterwards

 

Wine Enthusiast rating: The succulent aroma develops with aeration in the sweet forms of barley, cream, light caramel, and a trace of tropical fruit. Palate entry is round, borderline plump, breakfast-cereal sweet, and honeyed; at midpalate, there’s a slightly oily peat smoke. Sweetly concludes with the focus on the malt.

USC rating: Stunningly golden dram with aromas of sweet stone fruits, citrus, honey, cereal, and a wisp of sage. Soft and smooth with flavors of malted chocolate, smoke, and dried apricot that build onto a mellow, semi-sweet, and smoky finish. Fantastic.

Distiller rating: This whisky is quite the hidden gem in Diageo’s Malt Whisky Collection. The whisky is filled with heather, honey, nuts, and pears. Delicate smoke comes in on the palate along with dried cherry and more honeyed nuts. It is a shame that this whisky doesn’t get heralded more than it does, but then again, maybe it’s okay to keep this one a secret. –Stephanie Moreno

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Ron Zacapa Sistema 23 Solera

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Power Flavors for the Enthusiast in Cocktails with or AS Dessert!

photo courtesy of Diageo

Whisky Reviewed: Ron Zacapa Sistema 23 Solera
Distiller: Zacapa (Diageo)
Region: Guatemala
ABV: 40%
Suggested Retail Price: $45
Distiller Rating: 92
Rum Howler Blog Rating: 91

Mark’s Review

So I walk into the Carnegie Club for Fine Tobacco NYC’s cigar and whisky event. There, in front of me stands Kelvin. On his small table is a snifter with a dark liquid. I ask, “What’s in the glass?” With the same wide grin he shares with new guests, he lets me smell the contents. Looking odd, I say, “Rum”? Yup! Ron Zacapa 23. He proceeds to tell stories of cigars paired with whiskies and that a good rum is as wonderful an experience as scotch or bourbon.

Feeling every bit of my King Leonidas line, “I’ll put that to the test”, I sat down with a light pour, took out a pen and wrote my impressions, pre-stogie. Right off the bat, BANG! Sweet sugar smacked me upside the head. The force kept straight through the mid palate and as it eased down my throat, fleeting Broadleaf flavors emerged.

This is a splendid drink for the Enthusiast seeking life beyond the usual brown dram. I also knew any strong stick would be a perfect match, provided it had a gentle fade to allow other external tastes to emerge.

So guess what I did? You bet! I lit up! Maybe my evening smolder was not the precise pair but, nonetheless, the combo weaved its magic.

A true benefit here is that this spirit can amplify any cocktail made with it. I mentioned to Kelvin that a pina colada with Zacapa 23 drizzled on top would bring a smile to any cynic’s face. But, even if you don’t smoke, a Glencairn neat or with a cube could be fantastic with vanilla ice cream, banana cream pie or by itself after dinner.

One note, the “23” is Sistema 23 not the minimum age in the bottle. The end product of a Solera process, the number really represents the oldest whisky; the youngest being six years old. That said, I just care how great the power transfer is and how it works with a nice Montecristo #2 Torpedo.  Bliss!

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation

Aromas & Flavor Appeals to: Optimal Client Type Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado Apprentice Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee Adventurer With Food
Chameleon Lover Hedonist Dessert or Afterwards

 

Distiller rating: Ron Zacapa 23 Sistema Solera Rum is enduringly one of the most pleasurable dark rums to sip neat. At first the sweet notes of roasted coffee, butterscotch, vanilla and dark chocolate appear, then some fresh citrus and apricot refresh the palate with green herbal accents, nutmeg and ginger. The long finish includes flavors of caramel, pipe tobacco, cedar and roasted nuts. –Amanda Schuster

Rum Howler Blog: (Edited) I have noted in the past, that this rum can at times seem to carry just a little more honey sweetness and vanilla. Dry fruit (raisins and dates in particular), pecans and walnuts, and cocoa are all highlighted in the exit which reveals just a touch of bitterness in the exit (which perhaps is the perfect foil for the honey-like sweetness which characterized the entry). The palate is left with lingering impressions of molasses and baking spices. My final score of 91/100 reflects that I have a high opinion of the Ron Zacapa Centenario (23 Solera) Rum. If I were to have a gathering of close friends and family and I wanted to serve a high quality spirit which everyone could enjoy. This rum from Ron Zacapa would be a very good choice. –Chip Dykstra

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Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve

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A Flavor Chameleon for the Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner or After

Whisky Reviewed: Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve
Distiller: Dalmore
Region: Speyside
ABV: 44%
Suggested Retail Price: $125
Distiller Rating: 90
Wine Enthusiast Rating: 95

Mark Garbin’s Review:

Yes. You can drink this gem even if you don’t smoke. On the nose, relish in floral aromas with highlights of light pound cake, malty cinnamon biscuits and a holiday wood fire.

What? You expected the typical Dalmore profile? Think again. It’s a new day for Enthusiasts.

Scores of flavors follow those scents including vanilla ice cream, toffee and caramel. After that, gentle sherry notes and orange slices emerge at mid palate. Finally, the finish generates a slight bitterness and more fireplace memories.

But then, WOW!

The taste sequences shuffled and reshuffled. I didn’t know where each began or ended. I further found that slow-drinking this dram, allowing for more air in the mix, created a velvet sensation unlike others in the product line. Water only strengthened those traits. This whisky’s inbred chameleon nature is best enjoyed without food after which it depends on your stogie choice; if desired.

Various writers suggest a strong Churchill. Allow me to retort! Don’t blow away your senses. The many varied qualities in your glass go better with a mild companion such as a Fuente Don Carlos Robusto. You might step out on the wild side and add one-half teaspoon of Grand Marnier or Cointreau to your snifter or Glencairn and savor the unfolding magic.

In summary, with Cigar Malt Reserve, the more you ease into the night’s conclusion, the more you’ll enjoy it.

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation

Aromas & Flavor Appeals to: Optimal Client Type Great For:
Subtlety Aficionado Apprentice Cocktails
Power Flavor Admirer Enthusiast Neat Before Dinner
Balanced Devotee Adventurer With Food
Chameleon Lover Hedonist Dessert or Afterwards

 

USC rating: The nose on this complex Highland whiskey offers bright orange peel, rich aromas of figs and raisins followed by dry Baker’s chocolate, nutty sherry notes and just a whisper of delicate smoke. The palate is robust with ripe tropical fruit, raisins and orange zest. This is followed by dark chocolate, vanilla and unctuous sherry notes. This whiskey finishes long & spicy with hints of fennel, sharp ginger & rich vanilla notes. –Ryan Conklin

Wine Enthusiast rating: Aged in a series of barrels—first American oak, then transferred to a former oloroso Sherry cask and finished in used Cabernet Sauvignon barriques—this Scotch would be an outstanding dessert accompaniment too. Look for dusty cocoa and lots of Sherried dark fruit, like figs and dates, wrapped in caramel and baking tones that linger on the spicy finish. –Kara Newman