Epiphany – an illuminating discovery, realization, or disclosure
Merriam-Webster’s Dictionary

What were you doing in 2015 on the first Thursday in December? In an age of isolation, can we even recall times when we enjoyed whisky in joyous company? 

Years ago, that frosty night forever etched itself in my mind. 

The site: New York’s Brandy Library, where owner Flavien Desoblin provided the fun then as he hopes to do in 2021. Spirits lovers know these events portend great learning that goes beyond a simple “good time”. For me, a Scotch surprise emerged as brand ambassador Gemma Patterson held court with samplings of Balvenie’s products.

Up to that point, while having tasted many single malts and blended whiskies, my reviewing career was only dawning. I wanted to create something more than letter grades or number ranks. As I tried each of the labels, I heard Gemma’s voice repeating a word in a constant stream: “Balanced”. 

The light bulb went on. If these whiskies appeal to folk who prefer flavors in symmetry, other brands might diverge; and that could be a helpful thing. This grew into the basis for my rating scale. 

Fast forward to a recent winter COVID-19 on-line tasting hosted by her heir, Naomi Leslie. No less an expert, she faced forty eager Zoomies who always demand a high level of skill and knowledge from such reps.

For me, I had an epiphany redux. For others, the magic revealed itself in layers of malt, lasting aromatic smoke and Naomi’s deft descriptions of Balvenie 12-, 14-, 21- and the 14-year Peat Week. She shared more than mere profiles, but spoke to the history and culture of her firm; traits that serve as the label’s bedrock.  

Throughout her session, she used the term “Balance” often. Plus ça change… 

Checkout the reviews for:

Balvenie Doublewood 12 Year
Balvenie Caribbean Cask 14 Year
Balvenie Portwood 21 Year
Balvenie The Week of Peat 14 Year

46% ABV
Distiller Rating: 92
Suggested Retail Price:  $150+

Mark Garbin’s Review:

Wow! Did whisky aromas ever jump out at you straight from the glass as you wait the customary twenty pre-nosing seconds?

Well, this one did in a contest for dominance between honey, malt, alcohol, cream and dirt. Yes, those scents attacked from a Glencairn with no need to extend my nostrils into the receptacle.

But, after a long period of continuous inhales, I tempted the fates of taste.

The palate’s initial sweet sensation gave way to bitterness reminiscent of the Craigellachie 13. But it was short-lived as burnt almonds and vanilla rose to the fore only then replaced by a stronger level of hot spice. Adding water diminished the sweetness resulting in rising pepper.

The smooth yet brief finish left a nice acrid afterburn as I reminisced the power of warring flavors.

Not for the faint of heart, the Adventurer tries this, by itself, before or with a meal of similar tones. Try an arugula salad with balsamic vinaigrette followed by mustard paprika crusted lamb or pork chops. You’ll enjoy everything to the fullest.

It’s also another match for a strong cigar. No weak-ass smokes allowed!

Michael Bendavid’s review below captures the essence of this spirit in greater detail. Nicely done.

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation:

Distiller.com rating: Flavors open up quicker than a kid ripping open presents at Christmas. Marzipan almonds on the nose with a Rock ‘em Sock ‘em sour maltiness delicately spiced, sweetened and seasoned. Baskets of fruit and nuts are balanced with just the right amount of oak and meatiness. A thick Greek yogurt tang bursts with lemon in the finish before the malts return to kiss you goodnight. This is all four food groups in a glass. –Blair Phillips

Malt and Oak(edited): While the 13 was vegetal and somewhat sulfury (see the review here), I found the 17 to be delightful. If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you already know that I have a proclivity for bitter flavors and the 17 replaces the sour (less up my alley) with bitter which works quite well. Palate: Relatively bitter and far less sour than the 13, with spice – chili pepper, cinnamon and cardamom – with a light sweetness. For a fleeting moment the taste of IPA beer crosses the tongue. Linger: Bitter citrus in the mouth, tangy on the sides of tongue and spicy down the gullet. This finish is close to perfection!! I think this is the real gem in the range. It’s past the “danger zone” of onion still character that dominates the younger expressions of the meaty distilleries (Craigellachie, Mortlach and the like) and works really well. – Michael Bendavid

46% ABV – 92 Proof
USC Rating: 93
Distiller Rating: 88
Suggested Retail Price: $70

Mark Garbin’s Review: They call Craigellachie 13 the “bad boy” of single malts; a moniker well deserved. Its old-fashioned distillation method requires cooling in copper coils called a worm tub (Click here).

The result highlights every flavor and appeals to the Adventurer. Sweet honey malt starts the party but suddenly spice, smoke, salt and a curious minerality hits the mouth with a soft bitter herb essence. These attributes persist until you swallow with the hot spicy taste remaining through the quick finish. Adding water eliminates the residual acerbic trait and creates a firmness that lasts on the tongue finishing with a light smolder and heather nectar with medium length.

Caution: each of the whisky’s qualities rises to the fore with muscle and competes for your attention. Surrender to the inevitable. Either ally yourself to focus on one of the warring tastes or decide what food is the ideal accompaniment to this spirit.

I thought of lamb chops or venison. There are few single malts that can stand up to such powerful meals. You’ll find the tang of strong-flavored meat a wonderful juxtaposition to the strength of this drink.

Alternatively, try a strong cigar but beware: The stogie needs a backbone to withstand the onslaught.

Otherwise, be prepared to storm the castle of your senses with Craigellachie 13 as your trusted companion.

Mark Garbin’s Evaluation:

Distiller.com rating: Taking a whiff of this whisky instantly takes you to Scotland. Rich malt, apples dipped in honey, hay, and gentle wood spices fill your head as you inhale. The whisky is moderately full on your palate and continues with the orchard fruits but adds some lemon and a touch of mint. Having been bottled at 92 proof, the spiced notes are heightened and finishes on the dry side, but there’s still a little sweetness left to soften the blow. –Stephanie Moreno

Malted Blog: Nose – Oh bags of fruits: apples, pears, passion fruits. The fruit is fizzy & slightly fermented so think like boiled sweets and apple cider. A touch of caramel & honey too.
Palate – The texture is big thick and luxurious. There is sulphur and esters for sure here as well. More caramel and some crack of pepper.
Finish – The finish isn’t massively long but it is very bitter and astringent. Sour tang of wood sap. Quite the roller coaster of a dram.